Home » History of Fashion: Plaid

History of Fashion: Plaid

Whether you love it or find it a symbol of all things hipster, plaid has been remarkably successful. It’s one of the most widespread, recognizable and ubiquitous designs in the world, coming in almost every color and shade under the sun. But while it may be a major part of the hipster dress code, plaid has meant a lot of different things to many different people and cultures during for thousands of years.

AND technically, plaid isn’t the pattern’s proper name. That honor goes to the word “tartan,” which was first used to describe the individual colors and patterns used to decorate the clothes of different Scottish clans.

So, without further ado – Let’s take a look at how this pattern became so popular.

1500s: THE ORIGIN OF PLAID

Most of us don’t know the difference between plaid and tartan. Tartan refers to the unique cloth patterns which distinguish one Scottish clan or geographical region from another. By the original Scottish definition, a “plaid” was a Celtic kilt or blanket which served as an outer layer to battle the Highland elements.

Plaid, as we know it, was later appropriated by British and American manufacturers, who created patterned fabric which resembled tartan. Written records from 1538 place the fabric in high esteem amongst royalty including King James V, who gifted his wife with several bolts of the material.

1700s: BANNED IN THE UK

Though many of us may want to impose a plaid embargo on our most hipster-adjacent friends, tartan was actually forbidden in Britain during the 18th century. The fabric’s rebel uniform association with the Scottish Rebellion of 1745 against the union of Scotland and England, making tartan prohibited in the country for nearly half a century under the Dress Act. The print didn’t really resurface again until 1782, when plaid became legal, and it became in vogue to wear plaid gowns to formal occasions.

1850-1950: LUMBERJACK LORE

During the 19th century, the pattern made the leap from Europe to the U.S., where it became known by the informal pattern we know today: plaid. Midwest company Woolrich Woolen Mills gave plaid’s popularity a boost when they originated Buffalo plaid in the 1850s. Buffalo plaid’s distinctive red and black checkered pattern became a staple amongst those in outdoor professions — most notably, lumberjacks.

Clothing company Pendleton debuted a mass-produced plaid shirt for men in 1924, which became an instant casual wear hit. In 1936, flannel caught its next big break: During a particularly bitter winter snowstorm, the little town of Cedar Springs began to produce its own red flannel, and the print began to take root as a winter staple. Pendleton responded to the upswing in interest by debuting a female version of the shirt in 1949.

1970s: REBELLION

After several decades of developing into one of the United State’s favored patterns, plaid returned to its origins as a form of liberated style. Plaid became ubiquitous in the 1970s, adorning everything from suits to interior design elements. Though originally imbued with sweet, rustic connotations, the plaid shirt became part of a more risqué look when The Dukes of Hazard’s Daisy knotted hers above the waist and wore it with daring hot pants.

Across the pond, Queen Elizabeth II’s Royal Stewart Tartan was appropriated by the punk movement in the form of ripped layers and shredded shirts. The look was famously intended to give the fabric, associated with the monarchy, an anarchic spin. Inspired by the cultural phenomenon, Vivienne Westwood began to popularize her famously punk-inspired plaid on the coattails of the movement. Plaid was about to become a symbol of rebellion once more.

1980s: COUNTERCULTURE REVOLUTION

The 1980s proved a pivotal decade for plaid. Movies from The Heathers to St. Elmo’s Fire had plaid in a preppy stronghold, and public figures including Princess Diana exhibited the fabric’s more pristine potential. But meanwhile, the grunge movement was starting to take form in the Pacific Northwest, spurring what would become plaid’s most notorious decade yet.

1990s: THE GRUNGE ERA

The plaid flannel shirt became the unofficial symbol of the grunge movement in the early 1990s. Bands like Nirvana, The Breeders, and Pearl Jam rocked plaids in their signature, grungy fashion. Newcomer to the fashion scene Marc Jacobs appropriated the style with his line in his notoriously grunge-inspired Spring 1993 collection, and has continued his love affair with plaid ever since.

Empire Records followed soon after, and Liv Tyler’s ultra-mini plaid skirt and fuzzy blue sweater became an iconic countercultural image.

In 1995, couture designer Alexander McQueen took up Jacobs and Westwood’s gauntlet by infusing his collection with tartan, naming the collection “Highland Rape” in reference to Scotland’s mistreatment by the English in 1800s.

More Fashion Fabula

A Lesson in Layering

Fall is here, temperatures are dropping, and the time for piling on clothes has arrived and, with that, the dreaded fear of looking like an

Arts and Crafts

In the late nineteenth century, art critic John Ruskin and textile designer William Morris advocated the embracement of natural patterns inspired by the British countryside.

Professional Look by Topshop

Clockwise from left to right: Lips in Fawn, Eyelet Blazer, Long Sleeve Blouse, Bone Heel Ankle Boots, Split Pocket Pencil Skirt

What to Wear to a Wedding

Have you ever received a wedding invitation in the mail that left you completely clueless about what to wear? Between “black tie optional” and “semiformal,”

5 Style Habits for the Professional

While it’s true that in this day and age, office attire is more approachable and casual than ever, greater wisdom holds that dressing professionally still

History in Fashion: Raw Denim

Raw Denim. Have you heard of it? Before you start thinking it’s just the latest trend in fashion, we invite you to consider it’s historical

The History Behind PF Flyers

From their classic canvas look, to their elusive background, PF Flyers are American history and culture compressed into one shoe. We dug deep into their

On Trend: Walk The A-Line

A-line skirts have been on trend for quite some time and there is no surprise that this will continue into 2015. With the holidays coming

Minimal Chic

Counter clockwise from left to right: Knit & Woven Cardigan, rag & bone Jean, Cold-Shoulder Top, Manolo Blahnik pumps

10 Best Lipsticks for Fall

As much as we love seeing bold experimental makeup on the runway, we really appreciate when a beauty look is something that’s easy to recreate

Organic Foundations for Summer

Beauty lovers: be aware! The FDA doesn’t regulate what ingredients go into makeup products or the labels that are placed on them. Your best bet

The History Behind PF Flyers

From their classic canvas look, to their elusive background, PF Flyers are American history and culture compressed into one shoe. We dug deep into their

Weekend Closet Picks

Anna Cardigan – This super-soft cardigan features a clean look for any weekend outing. Prada Sunglasses – Loving this chic spin on the classic wayfarer!