Home » Learn to Evaluate Trad Anchors With This 12-Point Rubric

Learn to Evaluate Trad Anchors With This 12-Point Rubric

Many climbers use a rubric to help build solid anchors. Guides and books often talk about SERENE (Secure/Solid, Efficient, Redundant, Equalized with No Extension) and ERNEST (Equalized, Redundant, No Extension, Secure/Solid, Timely). However, while useful as guidelines, these acronyms could stand to go deeper into the strength side of the discussion. That’s where the 12-Point Anchor Rubric comes in: It assigns a point value to each piece and aims for a minimum total score of 12. With a baseline strength ascertained, you can then focus on the SERENE/ERNEST side of the equation.

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